| Although raised
in and around New York, I knew little about and had never
visited City Island, so when I learned of a group tour sponsored
by The Institute for Learning in Retirement, I reserved
a space. Grabbing an early morning cup of coffee to jolt
myself awake, I drove to the park and ride off Exit 40 where
a full busload of eager participants awaited.
Our first stop (and what for me was the most interesting
part of the trip) was at the Bartow-Pell Mansion and Gardens
in Pelham Bay Park, which is part of the Bronx. In 1654,
Thomas Pell, an English physician of great foresight, from
our very own state of Connecticut, bought a vast area of
land, which included much of the present-day Bronx and lower
Westchester, from the Siwanoy Indians.
About 10 years later, Thomas’ heir, Sir John Pell,
built a manor house on the property, which was occupied
by several generations of the family before it was destroyed
during the American Revolution.
In 1836, Pell family descendant Robert Bartow and his wife,
Maria Lorillard, purchased part of the old manor and built
a fashionable three-story Greek Revival mansion. Although
Bartow had a prosperous book-selling business with an office
in Manhattan and a factory in Norwich, it was probably due
to Maria’s wealth (from the Lorillard tobacco family)
that no expense was spared in building their home.
Upon entering the mansion, you are greeted by an elegant
foyer featuring a dramatic free-standing elliptical spiral
staircase, which connects the beautiful first-floor parlors
with the bedrooms above. The house with its pastureland,
orchards and lawns sloping down to the bay, must have been
a busy place with Maria’s and Robert’s seven
children and many servants.
At about that time, due to the potato famine, many servants
came from Ireland. In addition to a governess (usually English)
there would have been a laundress, a cook, several maids,
a coachman and a stable boy. There is a stone carriage house
to the rear of the mansion, the only surviving building
of its type in the metropolitan area. Here we viewed the
impressive coach the family would have used for special
occasions. Their coachman would have been chosen for his
height and good looks since he also acted as the family’s
calling card, often announcing their arrival.
The carriage house was home to the stable boy who worked
from 5:30 a.m. until late in the evening. He fed the horses
three to five times each day with each horse consuming about
16 pounds of food. He was also responsible for grooming
the horses and making up their beds of hay each night. He
slept with the horses as he was considered beneath the other
servants.
In addition to an everyday carriage, there would be an
open sleigh for use in wintertime. Each family had a distinctive
set of sleigh bells so you would know who was approaching
or driving by.
Another indication of the fierce retention of “class
levels” is typified by the convex mirrors used in
the parlors and dining rooms. This type of mirror permitted
servants to see who needed food or wine while remaining
at a safe distance from the guests at the table. The double
parlors were separated by sliding mahogany doors which were
opened when the family entertained; often with actors who
formed living pictures known as “tableau vivant.”
The parlor holds portraits of family members, but usually
just the face and upper body are portrayed.
Artists of that time charged extra if they painted the
arms or legs. It is from this practice that we get the expression,
“It cost an arm and a leg.” The mansion was
sold to the City of New York in 1888 and in 1914, the International
Garden Club adopted the mansion as its clubhouse. Today,
the Bartow-Pell Mansion is a national historic landmark
owned by the New York City department of parks.
The remainder of the day was spent on City Island which
seems to survive primarily as a retreat for boat lovers
since transport to the city by any other means is difficult.
The main street consists of modest, well-worn buildings
and places to eat seem limited to the simple fish and chips
type. The business directory lists one doctor, one dentist,
one pharmacy, one bank, no hospital but seven yacht clubs.
For boating enthusiasts who like a simple lifestyle with
both feet rooted firmly in the past, City Island would be
an ideal place to settle. Admittedly, it had little appeal
for me.
- For more about the Bartow-Pell Mansion, go to www.bartowpellmansionmuseum.org
Jean Cherni is founder of Senior
Living Solutions, a retirement advisory service. Contact
her at jeancherni@sbcglobal.net or 15 The Ponds, Branford
06405.
H. Pearce Company REALTORS®
is a full-service real estate company with more than 100
agents and branch offices in greater New Haven and the Shoreline.
Corporate and & Commercial offices are located in North
Haven, where the company was founded in 1958. All listings
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